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Proper Tree Pruning

Pruning of tree limbs on a regularly scheduled basis will improve tree health, control growth, and enhance fruiting, flowering, and appearance.

Trees should be pruned for the first time 2 to 5 years after planting, then every 5 to 7 years thereafter. Pruning is best done from winter to early spring (before new growth starts) because wounds close quickly as growth starts in the spring and insect and disease infestations are less likely.

Step back and look at the tree to be pruned. Try to imagine what it will look like when it is going to be larger, and remember that tree limbs will increase in diameter and lengthen but will not move upward on the trunk as the tree grows.

Proper pruning cuts

In order to make a proper pruning cut, you, you must first locate the branch collar.

The branch collar is an extension of the main stem of the tree where the branch joins the main trunk. Cutting into the branch collar allows decay to expand into the main trunk of the tree.

  • Always make pruning cuts on the outside of the branch collar
  • Do not leave branch stubs, living or dead
  • Use sharp hand tools designed for pruning and wear safety equipment
  • Do not paint wounds with pruning paint. It does not prevent decay and may interfere with wound closure
  • Homeowners should never climb a tree to prune limbs or attempt to prune limbs near overhead power lines
  • Never remove more than 1/3 of the live crown in a single pruning.

Pruning of trees prior to storms and hurricanes

Prune for strength and form.

Topping a large tree causes excessive sprouting of weakly attached new branches, and also increases wind resistance by creating denser branching patterns. Excessive lifting creates a condition where trees become top-heavy. Both of these methods of pruning increase the chances of wind damage in the long run.

Prune for strength by removing

  • Co-dominant leaders or multiple trunks to encourage the growth of one main trunk
  • Injured, diseased and dead branches.
  • Rubbing branches

Prune for form by removing

  • Excess lateral branches to produce a ladder effect at maturity
  • Water sprouts and root suckers
  • Limbs that turn inward, cross or extend

Topping/Hat Racking

Topping is a type of pruning where most of the canopy is removed from a tree, leaving mostly branch stubs. Topping initiates decay in the trunk and main branches and attracts wood boring insects. Never top a tree or allow anyone to top one of your trees. Topping is equivalent to butchering a tree. Competent arborists do not top trees.

Excessive Lifting
Excessive lifting is a common pruning practice where the lower branches of the tree are removed to provide clearance for cars, structures, etc. Over lifting, or excessive thinning of trees is a poor pruning practice, however. This type of pruning causes trees to be top heavy, reduces trunk taper and increases chances of branch breakage. It also disfigures the natural form of the trees.

Choosing a Tree Service/Arborist

Homeowners who rush to accept the service of a tree expert are frequently taken advantage of by fly-by-night amateurs with a pickup truck and chainsaw. The result of this is poor quality work, and greater long term costs.

The best option is to choose a tree care professional. The arborist (tree care professional) you will want to hire should:
 

Tips on Choosing Proper Pruning Tools

If you've got even one shrub, sooner or later you'll need to remove unruly growth and dead or injured branches. With the right assortment of pruners and loppers (pruners are one-handed tools, loppers require two hands), you can keep any plant healthy and well manicured, from rosebushes and shrubs to privacy hedges and small trees.

"The first tool you should buy is a pair of bypass pruners," says Roger Cook, This Old House landscape contractor. "You can use them for everything, so it's worth investing about $50 for a good pair; cheaper ones can fall apart with all the use." Because bypass blades sweep past each other like scissors, they're best for making clean cuts in living wood. For chopping dead branches, you'll want to add an anvil lopper (about $30), which has a blade that hits against a soft plate, and a folding saw (about $20) for slicing through thick branches. "You'll be able to manage most pruning chores with that set of tools," Roger says.

Pruning can be heavy, repetitive work, and trying to take too big a bite with the wrong tool is the quickest way to increase your own weariness and frustration while also shortening the life of your equipment. Certain tools, like those with compound-action gears, will make the task easier. But the best way to keep things comfortable whenever you go out to prune is to wear gloves and make sure your tools are clean and sharp.